Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.
In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.
How does vermicomposting work?
Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!
During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.
What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?
- Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.
- Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
- The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.
- Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
- Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
- The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?
A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.
No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.
When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to my garden beds?
If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.
Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?
Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.
That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.
How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?
Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:
- Bin (see options below).
- Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
- Kitchen scraps – Perfect worm food includes bananas, watermelon, pumpkin, strawberries, apples, and more. I keep them on the counter in this container until I add them to the bins.
- Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. I get mine from Arizona Worm Farm. Look for a local supplier if possible. If you can’t find one you can get them online here. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.
Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:
The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:
- These plant protectors provide a large, deep area in the bed.
- They come ready to use and are the right size to use underneath my watering grids.
- A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds. They are available at Dollar Tree or Amazon.
- Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
- Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
- Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
- 2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
- I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
- If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.
Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:
1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.
2. Place the bin in the hole.
3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.
4. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms. Red wigglers are preferred. I get mine from Arizona Worm Farm. Look for a local supplier if possible. If you can’t find one you can get them online here.
5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.
6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.
7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.
8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.
9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.
10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.
Learn other ways to become a self-sufficient gardener in this article.
How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?
I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.
You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.
Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.
Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.
What do worms eat?
Perfect worm food: Watermelon, bananas, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, strawberries, apples, beans, pears, carrots, cherries, grapes, peaches, spinach, cucumbers, cabbage, celery, mangoes, tomatoes, corn, cardboard, shredded paper and egg cartons.
Feed worms in moderation: Bread, potatoes, pasta, rice and other starchy foods
Avoid feeding worms: Citrus, meats, bones, eggs (crushed shells are ok), dairy products, processed foods, salty or greasy food, and pet waste.
Tips for feeding worms:
Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.
Greens
Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells
Browns
Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper
- Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
- Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.
- Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.
- Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.
- The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
- Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.
Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?
Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.
The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.
The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.
Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?
Answer: The worms go through the beds, and some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.
Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?
Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How often do you add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?
Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.
Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?
Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.
Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?
Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?
Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.
Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?
Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area more moist, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.
Question: Will in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?
Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move, they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?
Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.
Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100. The bed has good drainage, and a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?
Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.
Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?
Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?
Answer: Red Wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Question: Are red wigglers native?
Answer: Red Wigglers are not native to the US – No worm is- they were all killed off during the Ice Age. But, Reds are not considered invasive. Especially in Arizona. They stay where they are at and can’t live in our natural native soils.
Question: Is cardboard toxic?
In our world, it is hard to avoid all chemicals. Cardboard is the most heavily used packaging material, and feeding it to our plants and trees is the best way to make use of a very valuable resource. The benefits of feeding it to our worms (and then our plants) dramatically outweigh any other option. If it’s painted with colored ink from overseas, it is very remotely possible that it has toxic heavy metals. Almost all the inks used in the US (something like 99.3%) are made from soybean oil and are completely harmless. It is also possible (but not likely) that the adhesives include formaldehyde. But, Formaldehyde also occurs naturally in the soil. It is produced during the decay of plant material in levels considered safe.
Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?
Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).
Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?
Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.
Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.
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Do you do anything with what’s inside or do you just keep repeating the process? Like do you take the compost out to use? What about the worms? Thanks
I keep repeating the process and adding green/brown material. The worms will carry the castings out into the bed. Once the bin finishes I often spread the castings around the bed and begin the process over, adding shredded cardboard, food scraps, etc. You don’t need to add more worms, they will come back to the bins when there are scraps for them.
@Angela Judd, what do you mean by once the bin finishes? I keep adding food and dried leaves to my bucket and I always see the worms when I check to see if they’ve eaten the food. Could there be something wrong? In previous comments you indicated the worms may be trying to get out of the bucket if they are near the top. My worms are under the dried leaves I place on top of the scraps. Your help is appreciated. Thanks!
If you stop adding food the worms will eventually leave the bin, and then there will only be castings in the bin.
Red wigglers can live up to 4 or 5 years. The worms should survive and keep reproducing themselves indefinitely if conditions are right.
I don’t even use the buckets anymore. I pick an area of garden and dig some of soil out, throw in a little cardboard and food and have a small piece of plywood to cover area. Lift the board to feed, stays cooler than plastic. They just go to town and then I can easily move feeding area to different parts of garden months later. No more messy buckets to deal with. Worms go where ever they want in garden as well….everywhere I dig I have tons.
Nice! I love hearing that. Good to know, thanks for sharing.
Super! I’m excited. I use the square foot garden method Angela uses. Been composting in bins during the winter, but I’m going to try Joyce’s method now that its gardening time. Think I’ll try using 5 gallon bucket lids to cover the holes. Thanks to both of you!
Perfect! Good luck. I’m really enjoying having a simple way to compost directly in the beds. I think you will like it as well.
Where do you get your shredded cardboard?
A friend gave me mine, but shredded paper or dried leaves would also work if you can’t find the cardboard.
@Angela Judd,
What kind of paper should NOT be added?
I would avoid any glossy or highly printed paper.
I love your website Angela. The videos are teaching me a lot and I enjoy seeing your beautiful garden.
Thanks Cheryl. I appreciate your support. I’m so glad the information is helpful.
Hello
I really like your square watering setup. What parts do you use to make that?
It comes like that, I love having them in my beds. It’s a garden grid from Garden in Minutes. Here’s a link https://gim.ositracker.com/140976/10616 Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100
I was wondering about the heat in AZ. I put in a Garden tower test area and have watched the temp. The results are 90* plus. I would be worried that is too hot. I have a worm tower and have to put in an ice bottle daily. during the hottest days
I’ve noticed the worms burrow to the bottom and middle of the beds during the hottest days. I dig down deep to put the food for the worms in and then bury it with more dirt.
Have you had to fertilize the beds since doing this?
I added fertilizer to the beds after having the soil tested about a month after I planted them. Since that time I haven’t added additional fertilizer. I will probably add some organic fertilizer to some beds before fall planting depending on what I am planting. I don’t think this takes the place of all fertilizer, but it definitely improves the soil and adds nutrients. I may shift the buckets around to different places in the beds when I replant for fall as well.
Where did you get a big bag of worms? AZ worm farm is closed til mid-August so other than buying bait worms from a sporting goods store, I’m unsure where else to get them. Ideas?
I got my worms at Arizona Worm Farm. My vote would be to wait until they are available there if you live here in the valley. It’s pretty hot to get them started right now and mid-August would be a great time to add them to your beds.
Hi Angela! I know that you have bins that you compost in outside of the vermicomposting. Do you think your vermicomposting will take the place of your compost bins in general? I feel like the in bed set up will be so much more straightforward for me than piles/bins of compost. I wonder though if there are benefits of both?
Thank you so much!
Great question. It depends on how much you have to compost. The worm bins are my favorite way to compost kitchen scraps. It’s perfect because there is usually a (relatively) small amount that’s easy to add to a bucket or two. For garden/yard waste (which we have a lot of) the larger composting bins are a much better option. If you are just looking to compost kitchen scraps and a little yard waste you the worm bins would be enough. If you have a lot of yard waste it’s good to have both.
Do the worms eat root vegetables within the garden bed? Just curious about this whole process. I would like to build garden beds to start this fall.
No, they are great for the soil and only eat the decomposing scraps, not the growing vegetables.
I love the simplicity of having the worms right in the bed! I’m new to composting. What’s your process for incorporating the castings into the soil? Would it make sense to perhaps dig a new location for the worms periodically and move them so that once the bucket is removed and worms are out of the way, you can spread out the castings and work them into the soil?
Love the video! Glad not all the worms escaped! Haha!
A couple of ways: The worms carry the castings through the soil, and when a bin is finished I often spread the contents around the bed. I also move the buckets to different spots in the garden from time to time.
Hi! What do you mean you empty it when the bin is finished?
Often a bin will be completely composted and all that will remain will be the castings. At that point I spread the castings around the bed and either move the bucket to a new location or start the process over again. I add shredded cardboard back into the bins and then food scraps, topped with more brown material. The worms will return to the bins and begin composting again.
If my raised bed is only 6-7 inches deep,do I just cut the bucket to fit that height? And since it will be shorter than yours, do I add half the amount of worms, or the same for my 4×4 grid? This is awesome. Thanks so much for sharing!
You could have the bucket sticking up a little bit in the bed (or you could cut it) My bucket doesn’t go all the way down to the ground. I added 2 bags of worms and 2 bins for a 4X8 bed, so one bin with worms is probably enough for a 4×4 bed.
where you write “dried-out sponge,” did you mean “wrung-out sponge”? because a dried-out sponge would be completely bone dry and one wouldn’t think of adding water to bring it to that consistency. 😉
Thanks for the catch! You are right. I updated the post, I appreciate the heads up.
Great idea angela. I have done the same thing only didnt cut out the bottom (oops). But mine was for regular earth worms. Now Im thiking I will do this for both kinds of worms,as I already have a vermicomposting bin that is chock full of worms.
It’s a great way to compost and improve the health of your beds, for sure.
@Angela Judd, What is the benefit of cutting out the bottom vs. only drilling holes on the sides? Also, do you drill any holes in the bucket at the top above the ground or are the worms perfectly fine without that air coming in? Thank you.
If you cut the bottom off, the worms are free to burrow down further, and there is less heat trapped in the buckets as well. I recommend cutting the bottoms off if possible. I try (not always successfully) to bury the bucket below ground so you don’t necessarily need additional holes above ground. They don’t need the airflow.
I am just getting started on my in bed vermicomposter. But INITIALLY what order do you add kitchen scraps? Is it: cardboard, worms, scraps? Or cardboard, scraps, worms? I know subsequent scraps will go on top, just wondering about the initial build. Thank you!
Cardboard (let it absorb water for a bit), then worms, then scraps. Best of luck to you!
thankyou!
Does the compost attract harmful plant killing insects to the garden?
That hasn’t been an issue.
For the big bins of compost do you only add grass clippings and dead leaves?
What else should I add?
Hi Ester, I also add garden waste (cut it up so it composts quicker) coffee grounds (you can get them at Starbucks) and any kitchen scraps I don’t put in the vermicomposting bins. Hope that helps.
What time of year is good to put the worms in? I live in the mouton NC, zone 7.
Once it is warm enough to plant it’s warm enough for worms.
I live in the *mountains* of NC ☝️ that was supposed to say.
I would love to do this in my new raised beds! I’m just getting started with worm composting and I love the idea of having them right in the garden. I’m concerned about winter. I know you’re in Arizona but I am in western Colorado. It does get cold in the winter. Will the worms survive? If not, how would I bring them in for the cold?
From what I’m hearing from people in cold climates, it’s helpful to mulch the beds with several inches of leaves during the winter. The worms burrow down and then emerge the following spring. Another option would be to collect what worms you can from the buckets before temperatures cool in the fall and bring them indoors in regular vermicomposting bins.
Hi Angela
I am new gardener and i learn so much from your videos. I have followed step by step instructions of your video to put the worm bins and worms in the garden bed. Got the growing in the garden soil from AZ worm farm (keeping my fingers crossed for this summer). My question is…it’s been over a month, do i keep adding the kitchen waste in the bins? Do i need to separate the compost from worms and spread in the bed? If yes can you please make a video on how to do that? I keep seeing small bugs whenever i open the bin…is that normal? What should be done then? Should I keep adding kitchen scraps and not worry about the bugs and/or separating the compost from the bins? Do i need to add water separately in those bins or does watering the bed is sufficient? Sorry for too many questions!! Just so new at this…i do not have a microclimate as yours.. everything is new and rcvs full sun ALL day. Last year wasn’t was my first time gardening and was not very successful, hoping this year to be better. If possible can you please make a follow-up video on what to do next?
I did a follow up video and here is the link: https://youtu.be/991qDFd-uaI Hopefully that helps with some of your questions. I don’t add extra water to the bins, they get watered when I water the beds. During the summer your worms will be less active and burrow down in the bins. Best of luck to you.
Thank you for sharing! I do see that my first batch of vermicompost is ready, but am not able to separate worms from the compost…any tips on that or just wait for higher temps and once they burrow down, i should then scoop out the compost?
You can spread the castings around (worms and all) the worms will burrow back down into the soil. Start the bin over with shredded cardboard and food scraps and the worms will find their way back to the bin.
Thank you for all the information. Like the plan for raised bed gardening.
What keeps the worms from eating the plants that you are trying to grow?
They only eat the decomposing scraps, not the growing vegetables.
We are building beds that are 12 inches deep in St George, Utah, and we get temperatures as hot as 115*. I’m wondering if we should use weed barrier as well as cardboard under the soil in the garden boxes? Does weed barrier prevent the worms from going deeper? Is 12 inches deep enough for worms to escape the heat? Many thanks.
It depends on what is on the soil now – if it is dirt or soil, I wouldn’t use any weed barrier (cardboard is fine). If you are trying to smother Bermuda grass I would use weed barrier as well. The worms will find the cool spots in the beds to over summer.
I live in central indiana, and am wondering what adjustments I need to make for the cooler, moister climate.
Pay attention to the bins. If the bucket gets too wet, add additional browns.
Quick question –
When you say not to give the worms fermented food, do you mean things like sauerkraut – or produce that has started to go bad?
Thank you so much for your gardening site! I am learning so much!
Worms love produce that is going bad. Avoid things like alcohol that ferments. However, worms are smart if they don’t like something will stay away until it is good.
Hi Angela,
I love this method and am anxious to try it. However, I garden in several of the 2 x 8 elevated beds from Gardener’s Supply, so my beds are up on legs, not sitting on the ground. At only 15 inches deep and with a wooden bottom, I wonder if there is enough depth for the worms to burrow down and keep cool enough to survive our summer heat?
I considered using smaller 1 gallon buckets instead, but would like your opinion first. Any insight you could give me would be most appreciated.
I have been watching your videos (I love, LOVE learning from and expert in our particular, unique gardening climate!) and am excited to start a fresh, fall garden using what you’ve taught me. Thanks so much!
I double checked with Zach at Arizona Worm Farm and he and I both agree it would be better not to use the worms in the elevated raised beds – it would get too hot unless they are in the shade most of the time.
Hi!
Have you ever had problems with rodents or insects trying to get into the buckets?
Do you think this could work if you do not cut the bottom of the buckets and drill holes instead?
Thank you!
Yes, I’ve had insect problems (you can see common ones in the other comments or FAQ) Rats haven’t bothered the buckets. The buckets are buried in the beds and have a lid. I have heard of people not removing the bottom, It works, but I don’t think it would be as effective.
I set up my worm buckets into new raised beds this past Fall. One has become infested with fire ants. Saw your response to a question about ants. Is it safe to put ant bait into the worm bucket? Will the ants prefer the bait to the food scraps?
Hi Nancy – I double checked with Zach at the Arizona Worm Farm and it is safe. He recommends putting also putting one or two outside at the base of the bed and also increasing the moisture of the bed. Ants prefer it to be more dry. Hope that helps!
Nice and useful information
My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no? Thanks!
Hi I double checked with Zach at Arizona Worm Farm on this, here is his answer, “We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.” Hope that helps.
Do the lids need to be on tight or open a bit for air circulation when you put pail bins in the garden and should you water the area around the bucket to keep the soil moist around it for the worms to go through?
The lids can be on tight, but don’t have to be. Yes, watering the soil around the buckets is a good idea.
I live in Montreal, with cold winters. I vermicompost indoors. Would in-bed worm composting in my 22” deep raised garden boxes work, or would the worms freeze? What about in in-ground areas of my garden?
Check with local growers to be sure. I’ve had others in cold climates tell me they mulch their beds very well with straw and the worms survive.
I have garden/flower bed with 15 2 gal bins. Should I add food to to all of them or just a few at a time? The bins are 4′ away from each other side by side and about 6′ away up and down.
Thanks for your knowledge!
You can add food to all of them. Each bin is its own system. Wait to add more until the worms have eaten what is there.
@Angela Judd, What is the benefit of cutting out the bottom vs. only drilling holes on the sides? Also, do you drill any holes in the bucket at the top above the ground or are the worms perfectly fine without that air coming in? Thank you.
If you cut the bottom off the worms are free to burrow down further and there is less heat trapped in the buckets as well. I recommend cutting the bottoms off if possible. I try (not always successfully) to bury the bucket below ground so you don’t necessarily need additional holes above ground. They don’t need the airflow.
Will worms survive a CT winter? If so, can you/should you feed them through the winter and how much? Also, how do you till the soil in the spring without hurting them? My raised beds are about the same size as yours – 4’x8′ and about 15″ deep. Thank you!
I’m not sure if the worms would survive – You wouldn’t need to feed them through winter. You would want to put a thick layer of mulch/straw on the beds. I wouldn’t recommend tilling in the spring – add compost on top instead.
My worm bins in the raised beds have a mass of tiny roots growing into them from the bottom as if the surrounding vegetables are reaching into the worm compost for sustenance. Is this common?
Smart roots! Yes, it can be.
Do the worms reproduce enough to at some point (?) share with new bins or does a new bin need a newly purchased batch of worms? Thanks!
Yes, they reproduce. I only add the worms to new beds.
This is my first year of gardening. I am gardening outdoors in raised beds and in a greenhouse with grow bags. In the outdoor raised beds, I created a vericompost in each bed. Here is the problem. We have an infestation of earwigs this year because our winter didn’t cold enough, long enough to kill last years. They are destroying my garden. I find a LOT of them in my vermicompost buckets… due to the infestation to the beds, should I remove the vermicompost from the beds, as lease for the rest of the season? Help 🙂
I asked Zach at the worm farm for his opinion and this is what he said, “I would not take them out. This is not a problem I have had myself, but Diatomaceous Earth will kill the earwigs naturally. Just sprinkle it on top. Remember, it needs to stay dry to work – so she will need to reapply a couple of times.”
I want to grow garlic in one of my raised beds but am concerned that the worms will eat the bulbs. Will they?
No, the worms only eat dead or decaying matter.
I have limited gardening space. Can skip the “bin” and just put my worms in my planters and bury their food in the middle of all the plants? I’ve had a successful storage tote worm bin for several years now, but it won’t fit in my planters, and I just want to go straight to in-garden vermicomposting without having to buy a new bin system. Thanks!
Absolutely. The bin is more for us than the worms if we want to collect the scraps later on.
Angela, is there a recommended vermicomposting per square foot? I have long garden beds so I’m thinking I need a couple in each, at each end. Thank you!
Great question. I asked Zach at Arizona Worm Farm, and he made several good points. “One bin is enough, no matter how big the bed. The goal for the backyard gardener is to get a continuous flow of microbes. One habitat is plenty to make that happen. If their goals include composting their waste and they need more space for their family, they can add as many as they need to process the waste. But they don’t need high density of worms for a successful garden. Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, they just breed faster. Adding more worms initially just means they will slow their breeding sooner. Waste of worms and money.”
Wow this is so exciting! You mentioned 1 habitat per bed- how big is your bed?
Most of my beds are 4×8. I habitat in most any size bed is enough to introduce the good microbiology from the worms. If you have more scraps than that you can add more bins.
Will “beneficial” nematodes kill the worms? I’ve Heard of only using nematodes to water seed starts then they are “inoculated” Others treat the bed. Either way will they kill the worms in the vermicomposting? Love your site.
No, worms love eating nematodes.
We have bunnies. They eat dried pellets, spring mix, spinach and hay. In their litter bins we use shredded paper along with hay. Can I include the paper and their droppings in the vermicompost holes as part of the brown material?
Sure. In small amounts. You don’t want to overwhelm the worms.
Do rats pose a problem for vermicomposting?
Hasn’t been an issue. Keep things well covered with browns.
I have a Lomi composter and I put the compost in my garden beds. Would you recommend I also get red wriggler worms to put in the garden beds too?
Although the Lomi does break down the waste, unfortunately there are no microbes – it’s dry, mostly dead soil. It will add organic matter, but no microbes to your soil. If you have garden beds putting your food scraps in the beds with red wigglers would add beneficial microbes and improve your soil fertility.