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Arizona Garden in June

This is a Growing in the Garden FREE Printable.
Download June Garden Checklist
June Garden Checklist

If you spend time in an Arizona garden in June, you’ll likely enjoy bountiful harvests and beautiful blooms, especially early in the month. Spring and warm-season crops are wrapping up, and harvest baskets are often full. But as the month progresses, the garden shifts from production to survival.

June is typically the driest and one of the hottest months in the low desert. With an average high of 105°F (40.6°C) and only 0.12 inches of rain, your plants, trees, and soil feel the strain. This month can be a turning point—what you do now can help your garden endure the harsh summer ahead.

In this post, you’ll learn how to maximize your garden’s potential in June:

  • Which essential tasks to tackle
  • How much and how often to water
  • Common pests to watch for
  • How to keep plants healthy through the heat

When you’re working in the garden this month, stick to the cooler morning or evening hours and stay hydrated.

What Grows in Arizona Gardens in June

Wondering what to plant this month? Head over to the What to Plant in June blog post for a detailed list of vegetables, herbs, and flowers that grow well in the low desert this time of year.

Download the June Garden Checklist at the top of this post to stay on track all month long.

This guide is designed for low-desert gardeners in the Southwest, including areas with elevations below 3,500 feet, such as PhoenixTucson, and surrounding communities.

If you’re wondering what to plant and when, this planting calendar for Arizona is one I refer to all year long.

Arizona Garden in June

YouTube video

Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during June:


YouTube video

Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

Arizona Garden in June

Stay Ahead of the Heat

This month, hot, dry temperatures are affecting the garden. Correct timing, watering, shade, and mulching are essential.

  • Mulch: If you haven’t already, add a thick layer (3–5 inches) of mulch to your garden beds. I use the wood chip mulch from Arizona Worm Farm.
  • Shade: Use shade cloth to protect annual vegetables, or plant them in areas that receive afternoon shade. I use this shade cloth to reduce sun stress.

Harvest and Transition

  • Onions and Garlic: Harvest any remaining onions and garlic at the beginning of the month and cure them indoors.
  • Cucumbers: If your cucumbers are bitter, heat may be the cause. Remove those plants and switch to Armenian-type cucumbers, which don’t get bitter. Learn more about bitter cucumbers in this blog post.
  • Beans: Warm-season bush beans finish up this month. Replace them with heat-loving types like asparagus beans or black-eyed peas. Here’s how to grow asparagus beans.

Tomato Tips for Summer

  • High Night Temps: Once nighttime temperatures stay above 75°F (24°C), tomato pollen may not be viable and fruit set can slow.
  • Ripening Indoors: If tomatoes are slow to ripen, bring them inside once they show a flush of color. Learn how to ripen tomatoes indoors.
  • Plan Ahead: Start seeds indoors for a monsoon tomato planting. Check the planting lists for other seeds to start now.

Summer Soil Care

Manage Summer Crops

  • Melons: Provide support for trellis-grown watermelon and cantaloupe as they begin to grow heavier.
  • Squash & Other Warm-Season Crops: Remove any plants that are no longer producing or show signs of heat stress or disease.

Watch for Disease

Amaranth
Amaranth

Vegetable Watering Guidelines for June

June can be one of the most challenging months for your garden. Both overwatering and underwatering can stress or damage plants—getting it right is key.

  • Check Your System: If you haven’t already, inspect your irrigation system and timer. Run the system to check for leaks, clogged emitters, and ensure all areas are being watered correctly.
  • Adjust for the Heat: As temperatures rise, annual vegetables need more frequent watering. Aim to water to a depth of 8–12 inches every 2–4 days, allowing the top of the soil to dry out between waterings.
  • Raised Bed Tip: I use the Garden Grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds efficiently and evenly. Use code ANGELA10 to save $10 off $100 or ANGELA to save 7% on any order.
Arizona Garden in June

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Low Desert Arizona in June: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month

Common Garden Pests to Watch for in June

Squash and Melon Pests

  • Squash Bugs: Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages—adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a bucket of soapy water nearby to drop them into. This blog post explains how to prevent and treat squash bugs.
  • Leaf Miners on Melons: Leaf miners can be found on cantaloupe and other melons. Remove affected leaves to slow the spread.
Squash Bugs
Squash bug eggs, nymph, and adults

Tomatillo and Ground Cherry Pests

  • Three-Lined Potato Bugs: These pests are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day and drop them into soapy water. If populations grow too large, it may be best to remove the plant entirely.
  • Look for: Eggs, larvae, and adult beetles.
3 Lined Cucumber Beetle
Three-lined potato beetle eggs, larvae, and adult

Sunflowers and Roses

  • Aphids and Lace Bugs: You may still see aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers. Hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs are already at work. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray off the bugs with water.
  • Leaf-Cutter Bees: Circular notches in leaves on roses, pomegranates, or other plants are caused by leaf-cutter bees. This cosmetic damage is harmless. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators and not a cause for concern.
Leaf Cutter Bee Damage
Damage from leaf-cutter bees

Tomato, Pepper, and Eggplant Pests

  • Tomato Hornworms: Watch for insect frass (droppings) or chewed leaves as signs of tomato hornworms. Look closely on stems and leaves, handpick them, and feed to chickens if you have them.
  • Look for: Large green caterpillars and their droppings.
Tomato Hornworm and Frass
Tomato hornworm and frass

Bean Pests

Spider Mites
Spider mites

Grape Vines

  • Grapeleaf Skeletonizers: These caterpillars can quickly defoliate grape vines. If caught early, remove affected leaves and handpick eggs and caterpillars. For larger infestations, treat with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), using it only on affected areas and as directed.
Grape leaf skeletonizer
Grapeleaf skeletonizer eggs and caterpillars

Pomegranate Trees

  • Leaf-Footed Bugs: Monitor closely for all stages—eggs, nymphs, and adults. Daily vigilance and hand removal into soapy water is the most effective method for controlling this difficult pest.
Leaf Footed bug
Leaf-footed eggs, nymphs, and adult

Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:

  • Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves. I love watching them in the garden.
  • Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
  • Gulf fritillary butterflies in all stages, swallowtail butterflies, hummingbirds
Arizona Garden in June
A bee on a sunflower and a swallowtail butterfly


Low Desert Arizona in June: Container Gardening Tips

Put away small pots for the summer
Put away small pots for the summer
  • If possible, put small containers away until the fall. The soil from the containers can be used as mulch or added to compost.
  • Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
  • Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.

Container Watering Guidelines:

  • As temperatures rise, closely monitoring containers and watering them frequently is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
  • If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
  • Add ollas to containers to help with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya.

If you’re using containers in a hot climate, Elevated Garden Bed Tips for Hot Climates shares strategies to help your garden thrive when temperatures soar.

Use ollas and a moisture meter to help you with watering containers
Use ollas and a moisture meter to help you with watering containers

Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

Arizona Garden in June
Arizona Garden in June
Echinacea, hollyhock, and strawflower

Flower Watering Guidelines:

As temperatures rise, annual flowers will require more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.

Arizona Garden in June
Lisianthus

Perpetual Annual Flower Calendar

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.


Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

Arizona Garden in June

Fruit Tree Care in June

Mulch and Feed Trees:
If you haven’t already, apply mulch around your trees. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year helps protect trees from intense summer heat. Learn more in this blog post.

Shade and Water Young Trees:
Shade newly planted fruit trees and monitor watering closely to help them survive their first summer.


Fruit to Harvest This Month

Arizona Garden in June
Figs, grapes, and apples

Citrus Care in June

Expect Fruit Drop:
Some fruit drop this month is normal—called “June Drop,” it’s the tree’s way of self-thinning to match what it can support through summer. No need for concern.

Water Consistently:
June is often the driest month of the year, so consistent, deep watering is essential to help citrus trees handle the extreme heat.

Remove Old Fruit:
Once citrus fruits soften, remove any remaining fruit from the tree to avoid pests and disease.

Protect Exposed Bark:
Paint or wrap exposed citrus trunks to prevent sunburn. Read this blog post to learn how to protect citrus bark from sun damage.

June Drop
“June Drop” Citrus trees self-thin and drop fruit

Fruit Watering Guidelines: 2, 3

Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.

  • Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
  • Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
  • Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
  • Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days. 
  • Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Leaf Curling From Water Stress
Extreme Leaf Curling From Water Stress

Herb Gardening in the Low Desert, Arizona Garden in June

  • Keep basil cut back above two sets of leaves to encourage branching and a full plant.
  • Allow bolting/flowering dill, cilantro, fennel, and parsley to remain in the garden. This is one of the best ways to attract beneficial insects to your garden; learn more in this blog post.
  • Harvest perennial herbs like sage, rosemary & thyme lightly throughout the summer. Delay heavy pruning until fall.
  • Harvest oregano this month. It will flower soon if it hasn’t already. Enjoy and preserve the harvest by dehydrating or freeze-drying.
Arizona Garden in June
Lacewing eggs on dill, parsley seeds, and basil

Herb Watering Guidelines:

  • As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
  • Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
  • Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.

Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

Desert Landscaping

Hold Off on Pruning and Fertilizing:
Avoid pruning or fertilizing trees, shrubs, and landscape plants this month. It encourages tender new growth that’s easily sunburned when temperatures exceed 100°F (38°C).

Don’t Plant (With One Exception):
June is not the time to add new plants, trees, or shrubs—heat stress makes it difficult for them to establish.

  • Exception: Palms. They thrive when planted in warm soil. Keep roots well-hydrated and support the plant while it establishes.

Watch for Stinknet (Oncosiphon piluliferum):
If you see stinknet, pull and dispose of it immediately—before it goes to seed. If the plant is already dry, handle it carefully, bag it, and toss it in the trash to avoid spreading thousands of seeds.

Considering Bermuda Grass Removal?
Now’s a great time to start. Learn more about removing Bermuda grass in this blog post.

Shade for Young Plantings:
Provide shade for any plantings less than 1 year old if they show signs of stress. Monitor the root ball closely to prevent it from drying out. This blog post outlines effective shade solutions

Landscape Watering Guidelines: 2

  • Give landscape plants a long, deep soak at the beginning of the month to prepare them for June’s hot, dry weather. Water should penetrate below the recommended 2-3 foot normal depths to leach the salts that build up in root zones and recharge the dry soil.
  • Desert-adapted trees, shrubs & vines every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 24-36″ trees / 18-24″ shrubs / 8-12″ vines).
  • High water use trees every 7-10 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
  • High water use shrubs every 5-7 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
  • High water use vines every 2-5 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
Dwarf Chaste Tree
Dwarf Chaste Tree

Sources:

1 – For further reading, please refer to the original article: “University of Delaware Cooperative Extension. (2023). Key Strategies for Soybean Management.” https://sites.udel.edu/weeklycropupdate/?p=4489.

2 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.

3 – https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1151-2021%20%282%29.pdf


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24 comments on "Arizona Garden in June"

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  1. Angela, I always learn from you, and even though I am not as ambitious as you with my own garden, it inspires me to see what is possible in this desert, with knowledge and dedication. I admire you for all your work and for being willing to share and teach others, in addition. Thank you!

  2. Wow, i learned a lot from looking at your post. I never thought that you can grow some of these plants in the Mesa, Arizona. Thanks for sharing this and looking forward for more post.

  3. my tomatoe plants leaves all curled up into themselves. it did have lots of flowers, but nothing happened. my cucumber plant had lots of flowers, I did get 4 cucumbers that were very good, then the vine started to shrivel up and the fruit was yellow. my corn plants were doing very well, then they turned yellow, lost all green color and dried up. did I overwater them? I am from CO. this is my first year. so hopefully next year will be better.

  4. I’m so glad that you posted a list of what we can grow for the month of June. I’m in Tucson, and I thought that I couldn’t grow anything else since it is really hot now(better than last year). You gave me hope! (I thought I had to wait next year or fall for some). I will put those seeds on the ground right away. Keep up the good work! Keep planting and sharing.

  5. Well done. I have been here 20 years and have had hit and miss with tomato and pepper plants. I have never tried a summer garden. Think I will try since June 1 is tomorrow. Thanks, girl.

  6. Having problems setting fruit with my spring tomatoes. My Fall tomatoes have great yields so I feel like my soil conditions are good. I have been growing tomatoes in NE valley for 25+ years in Scottsdale (Shea/104st area) with great success. We moved out to the desert (Goldfield Ranch in Tonto Natl. forest 4 years ago (elevation 1650′) and have had problems every year with spring toms setting fruit. My soil is hauled in and amended with mulch and horse manure for top 8-10″ with native claylike soil below. I feel like it could be temperature related in that initially I have very cool nights in early march when I plant and then early April we get a heat wave and flowers drop again. I definitely get much larger temp swings than I got back in town and wonder if this is the problem. I put shade cloth on in late April. I also think I may have pollination issues as shown in my zucchinis which grow to 3″ or so and drop off. I have had some success with hand pollinating. I’m guessing my humidity out here is lower than in town as well. I have tried pruning suckers off toms as well since plants are heavy on foliage. This helps some I think but still low yields. Other veggies that I grow do quite well ( sev. varieties of peppers, lettuce, cabbage, kale, carrots, onions, Armenian cukes, celery. fennel even pole limas). I’m from back east (Jersey) and have been gardening for over 60 yrs…for me it is all about tomaotes so if they fail I feel like the whole effort was a loss!
    Help if you can
    Thanks

    1. Hi Barry, I’m inclined to agree with you on the temperature fluctuations. They may be stunting the plant a bit in the beginning and then shocking them with heat. That early heatwave this year was tough. I’d try keeping them as warm as possible when you plant or holding off a bit later to plant next spring. I wish I had a better answer for you. Sounds like you are doing a lot of things right, but have had bad timing with the weather.

  7. Just visiting for the first time. Printed the link to Calendar for Maricopa County.
    Starting “Straw Bale Garden” in my back yard in Tempe.
    Sure I will be back to your site. Nicely done.

    1. Thanks so much. I’m glad the information was helpful. Strawbale gardening is a great way to go! Best of luck to you.

  8. On you tube I see so many animal watering tanks that we had on the farm. Can I use them to plant in here in Phoenix or is it is too hot? Paula

  9. You have the most beautiful, informative, yet super easy to digest, blog on gardening I’ve ever seen. I love your posts and have learned so much. You make something overwhelming seem manageable by breaking it down into easier steps. Thank you

  10. Hi, there! I planted seeds for cowpeas, armenian cucumbers, okra, basil, four o’clocks, zinnias, and marigolds about 10 days ago and so far only the cowpeas have sprouted… I thought all these could be directly sown in May, should some of them have been started indoors?

    1. They should all sprout yes. Sometimes keeping the seeds hydrated when it is hot is difficult. You can try planting them a little bit deeper. Make sure the soil doesn’t dry out.

  11. Can I start armenian cucumber in June? My pickling cucumbers are suffering from the heat, but have lots of blooms, will they produce dor me?

    1. I’d start some Armenian cucumbers. The normal types may not produce at this point and if they do, they are likely to be bitter.

  12. I bought pepper plants today (ghost pepper and Thai pepper), about 8-22 inches tall. I’ve been reading that, aside from shade, it’s just as important to keep roots around 75° to 85°. I have my peppers in large planters covered with a white T-shirt. My plan was to give them morning sun and move them to the shade after that. My problem is it’s currently 104° in the shade! Any shade. The root temperature 8 inches down was 100° with no sun that day. It’s June in phoenix and will only get hotter the next two months. No mulch or shade is going to stop them from absorbing the ambient heat. My only thought is morning sun and then inside the house after that. Am I just being paranoid about soil temperature? Thoughts? Thank you.

    1. You’re not being paranoid, you’re just gardening in Phoenix in June, which means you’re doing battle with one of the harshest growing environments around. And you’re absolutely right: root zone temperature is just as important as air temperature, especially for peppers. You may find that they go somewhat dormant and then come out of it after the nights begin to cool. You can move them inside as well.