Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.
In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example vermicomposting in hot weather places like the low desert of Arizona is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer, and then emerge again in the fall.
How does vermicomposting work?
Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms to compost food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight each day in kitchen scraps, and the byproduct of all that eating is worm castings. (Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!)
During the digestion process, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition that is readily available for plants. Worm castings, along with the chemicals secreted during digestion, make up vermicompost.
What are the benefits of worm composting?
- Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure, and aerates the soil.
- Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
- The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.
- Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
- Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
- The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
What is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin?
A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin. No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.
How do I make an in-bed worm composter?
Directions for making an in-bed vermicomposter:
Use a drill and a large bit to drill several holes all around a 2 gallon bucket.
Dig a hole in the garden bed the size of the bucket.
Place bucket in the hole.
Fill the bucket with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.
Add 300-600 worms to the bucket.
Put the lid on the bucket.
Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.
A note about sizes:
My raised beds are 15 inches deep, 4 feet wide and 8 feet long.
I used 2 two gallon buckets in each bed. If your beds are smaller or larger, adjust size and number of buckets accordingly.
I split one bag of worms between two buckets. Each bag contains about 3/4 of a pound of worms (around 500-700 worms, including babies, cocoons, and habitat).
What do worms eat?
Good for feeding worms
Avoid feeding worms
coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper
dairy, oily food, spicy food, meat, citrus, salty foods, fermented foods, glossy paper
Tips for feeding worms:
- Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.
fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread, pasta, coffee grounds, eggshells
cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper
- Make sure worms have eaten previously-added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
- Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.
- After adding food scraps (greens), cover with browns to avoid attracting fruit flies.
- Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.
- Interior of the bin should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge. (Damp but not overly wet) Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
- Replace lid on bucket after feeding.
Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?
Answer: Black Soldier Flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.
The larvae are voracious eaters so someone that finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your set up, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.
The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.
Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and are now crawling around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?
Answer: The worms go throughout the beds and then there are usually some in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.
Question: I have two guinea pigs and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?
Answer: Red Wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and, they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You are likely to be producing a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process is probably producing good results – the worms will make it better.
Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?
Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds and get watered as well.
Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?
Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.
Question: Does the vermicompost seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?
Answer: It seeps into the beds. I may move the bins around next season to “spread the wealth”.
Question: How do the composting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?
Answer: They burrow down into the beds to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers.
Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms?
Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.
Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?
Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH but it also kills some of the microbes we like.