Fava Beans: Cover Crop & Edible Harvest

By: Angela Judd | April 23, 2025

Fava beans, or broad beans, are near the top of my favorite cool-season crops list. I love the harvests, and the plants are a source of organic material for my garden at the end of the season. Over the years, I’ve learned a few tips and tricks for growing fava beans in my warm climate, and I’m happy to share them with you.

Several green broad bean pods hanging from a leafy plant, with other green foliage in the background—an ideal scene for growing fava beans in warm climates.

Article Index

Why Grow Fava Beans?
When to Plant Fava Beans
Seeds or Transplants
Caring for Fava Beans
Harvesting and Using Fava Beans
Chop-and-Drop Cover Crop
Saving Seeds
Health Benefits of Fava Beans
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Further Reading on Beans and Garden Support

Why Grow Fava Beans?

Heat and Frost Tolerance: Fava beans (especially the ‘Vroma’ variety) can handle mild frosts and perform well even when temperatures begin to climb.
Long Harvest Window: A single planting can yield beans for many weeks.
Cover Crop Benefits: When temperatures soar and plants stop producing, chop them down and drop them in place as a “green mulch.” Top with compost, and plant your next crop immediately. The spent fava plants break down quickly in warm weather, adding valuable organic matter to the soil.
Early Blossoms for Pollinators: Fava beans bloom early in the season—often in January—which helps feed local pollinators when other flowers aren’t available.

Three close-up images show a large bumblebee with a yellow and black body visiting clusters of white and black fava bean flowers on green leafy plants. The bee is collecting nectar, highlighting the benefits of growing fava beans in warm climates.

When to Plant Fava Beans

In cooler or cold winter zones, start them in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. In mild-winter climates, sow them in fall for a winter-into-spring crop.

Here in the low desert, I like to plant in October. You can plant from October through January, but remember, the later you plant, the shorter the harvest window. Planting in fall allows the beans to grow during cooler months and keep producing until it gets hot.

A hand planting a fava bean seed into dark soil in a large pot; a small sign labeled vroma fava beans is stuck in the soil, illustrating the process of growing fava beans, with green plants blurred in the background.

Seeds or Transplants

I’ve had equal success starting favas from seeds and transplants—they tolerate transplant shock better than many legumes.

My favorite for warm, short-day winters is Vroma, whose blooms aren’t triggered by day length, while the classic Broad Windsor remains the most widely grown variety.

A collage shows a packet of broad Windsor fava bean seeds, a hand holding large fava beans, and the back of a seed packet with growing fava beans tips, all set against a leafy green background—ideal for those interested in fava beans in warm climates.

Fava beans do best in loamy, well-draining soil—they’ll tolerate heavier soils if they drain reasonably well, but avoid waterlogged spots.

Boost Nitrogen Fixing: To supercharge nitrogen uptake, treat your seeds with a legume inoculant. These products contain Rhizobium bacteria that colonize bean roots and form extra nodules, which pull more nitrogen from the air into your soil. This is the one I use on Amazon.
Soil Prep: Amend the bed with a generous layer of compost and a handful of worm castings before planting.
Spacing: Sow four fava beans per square foot—about 8 inches (20 cm) apart—whether you’re using square-foot gardening or traditional rows.
Depth: Plant seeds 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) deep.
Moisture: Keep soil consistently moist (not waterlogged) until seedlings emerge.
Thinning: If direct-sown seedlings sprout too close together, thin them back so each plant has about 8 inches (20 cm) of space to grow.

A bag of Xtreme Gardening Mykos fertilizer is held in one hand; beside it, another hand uses a spoon to add the product into holes in the soil of a large round planter, preparing for growing fava beans—even in warm climates.

With these steps—especially adding an inoculant—you’ll maximize both healthy plant growth and the nitrogen-fixing benefits fava beans bring to your garden.

Caring for Fava Beans

Support and Staking

Fava bean plants can grow tall and top-heavy, especially when loaded with pods. They often flop over, so be ready with:

Individual Stakes: I put a bamboo stake next to each stem and clip it in place.
Corralling Method: Drive stakes at the corners of your bed and run two tiers of string around the plants to keep them upright.

Choose whichever method is easiest—this simple support will prevent plants from bending or breaking under their own weight.

A close-up of a lush pea plant growing in a raised garden bed, supported by wooden stakes and surrounded by green foliage and mulch—ideal conditions also for growing fava beans in warm climates.

Watering Needs

Check your soil. Cooler temperatures will mean less watering, but as temperatures climb, or in the fall when it’s still warm you may need to water more often. A layer of mulch helps to keep the moisture in the soil.

Pinching Tops for Better Pods

Once the main stem is loaded with flowers, pinch out the top few inches. This encourages larger pods and can help reduce aphid attacks at the plant’s tender tips.

Pests and Diseases

Fava beans are generally resilient to pests and diseases in cooler weather. As temperatures climb, you might spot a few aphids—luckily, ladybugs and lacewings will gobble keep them in check. When it gets hot (above 80°F/27°C), you may notice occasional blackening or spotting on leaves and pods, usually from an aphid-transmitted virus. That’s your cue that the fava season is winding down.

Learn more about using beneficial insects as pest control in this guide.

Other Problems: Diseases like chocolate spot fungus or rust can occur in very damp conditions, so ensure good airflow by not overcrowding plants. Favas are resilient, especially if planted in well-draining soil and mild temperatures.

A hand holds several green fava bean pods with noticeable black spots and patches, suggesting disease or pest damage—a common concern when growing fava beans in warm climates. Green leaves form the background.

Harvesting and Using Fava Beans

Fava beans typically reach maturity around 75–90 days from direct sowing.

When to Harvest

Young Pods: Many gardeners prefer to harvest pods at “finger size,” when they can be eaten whole. They’re tender, sweet, and delicious.
Mid-Size Pods: At this stage, you can shell the beans, briefly blanch them, and slip off their outer skins for a creamy texture.
Dry Beans: Leave pods on the plant until they turn dark brown. Shell them for long-term storage, remembering to soak the beans overnight before cooking.

A metal colander filled with fresh, whole green fava bean pods sits outdoors on a bench—an inviting scene that highlights the joys of growing fava beans in warm climates, with garden plants and soil visible in the background.

Harvesting Tips

Pods grow in pairs along the stem. To pick them without damaging the plant, clip them off with hand pruners or try this method:

Gently push the pod downward toward the main stem.
Snap it off in a single smooth motion (it’s often easiest to harvest two pods at a time if they’re growing next to each other).

Fava beans taste best right off the plant and can be kept in the fridge for only a few days before losing flavor and texture. If you plan to shell and freeze them, do so promptly for maximum freshness.

Three-panel image: Left, shelled fava beans in a colander; center, close-up of fava beans on a wooden surface; right, growing fava beans in warm climates—pod, beans, and knife on a wooden table.

How to Prepare

Experiment with different stages and cooking methods to find your favorite flavor and texture.

Young, tender pods can be snapped and eaten raw (if you enjoy that mild “green” flavor) or steamed quickly.
Once shelled and skinned, mid-sized beans are lovely sautéed with garlic or onions.
Mashed or pureed favas make a tasty dip similar to hummus.

Chop-and-Drop Cover Crop (with or without a Harvest)

One of the best things about fava beans is how you can tailor them to your garden goals:

Peak Nitrogen Production (No Harvest): If you’re looking purely for a quick, high-nitrogen cover crop, sow favas and let them grow until they start to form buds, but before the pods develop. At that point, cut the plants at ground level and leave the roots in place. Those living roots are hopefully packed with nodules full of atmospheric nitrogen, which will feed your soil as they break down.
Cover Crop + Tasty Harvest: If you want both organic matter and fresh beans, let your plants flower and set pods, then chop—and still leave the roots! You’ll enjoy a harvest of beans, and when production slows, cut the stalks at the soil surface.

Left: Hands using garden shears to cut plants in a raised garden bed. Right: Person pouring compost or soil from a metal bucket onto a grid frame, preparing for growing fava beans in warm climates.

How I Do It in My Garden:

Cut back at the right time: Decide whether you’re after nitrogen only (chop at bud stage) or both beans and nitrogen (chop after you’ve harvested pods).
Chop at Ground Level: Use garden shears to cut the plants right at the soil line, leaving the roots undisturbed.
Spread and Plant: Chop the stalks and scatter them evenly over the bed. Top with a thin layer of compost, then let them break down or if you’re impatient like me, go ahead and plant your next crop—zinnias, summer veggies, or whatever you like.
Watch It Work: In warm weather, the fava residue breaks down rapidly, enriching your soil with organic matter and nitrogen.

If you’re looking for cover crops that stand up to high temperatures, check out my guide on Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops for Summer Gardens to discover options that thrive when it gets hot.

Saving Seeds

If you like the variety you grew, saving seeds is easy:

Allow some pods to fully mature and turn dark brown on the plant.
Harvest the pods and let them dry thoroughly.
Shell the beans and store them in a cool, dry place.
Next season (or whenever you’re ready), plant these saved beans for a repeat performance.

Learn more about how to save seeds in this guide.

A green bean plant with one pod shriveled, dried, and turning brown among healthy green leaves—similar issues can occur when growing fava beans in warm climates, indicating a possible plant disease or pest problem.

Health Benefits of Fava Beans

Fava beans aren’t just great for the garden—they’re great for you, too! Here are a few reasons to include them in your meals:

Rich in Protein: Favas provide a good plant-based protein source, making them a favorite among vegetarians and vegans.
High in Fiber: They’re known to support digestion and help keep you feeling full longer.
Packed with Vitamins and Minerals: Favas contain folate, iron, manganese, and other essential nutrients that support overall health.
Potential Heart Health Perks: Like many legumes, they may help maintain healthy cholesterol levels when included in a balanced diet.

Always remember to consult with a healthcare professional if you have any dietary concerns, especially if you have conditions like G6PD deficiency, as fava beans can pose risks in certain cases.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Several green fava bean pods hang from a leafy plant in a garden, showing the success of growing fava beans even in warm climates, with a blurred background of soil and other vegetation.

Q: Can I grow fava beans in containers or small spaces?
A: Absolutely. Choose a deep container (at least 12–18 inches) to accommodate their root system, and provide adequate support as the plants grow tall.

Q: Do fava beans really improve the soil?
A: Yes. Fava beans are legumes, which means they have nitrogen-fixing nodules on their roots. They add nitrogen to the soil—especially if you chop and drop them before they produce beans.

Q: My fava beans are flowering, but I see no pods. Is that normal?
A: Sometimes it takes a bit of time for pods to form after flowering. Cooler temperatures and plenty of pollinators help. If temperatures spike, flowering can stall, so a little patience is key.

Q: How often should I water fava beans?
A: In cooler months, they don’t need frequent watering. As it warms up, keep an eye on the soil moisture and water when the top inch starts to dry out. Avoid waterlogged conditions, though.

Q: Do I need to peel the beans after shelling them?
A: This is a matter of taste. Larger beans can have a tougher outer skin that some people prefer to remove after blanching. Younger beans are often tender enough to eat as is.