How and Why to Thin Fruit Trees
Have you ever thought…
“My peach tree only produces small, hard fruit.” or “My apple tree’s fruit tastes great, but every piece is tiny!”
If so, you’re not alone—and it’s something you can fix. Thinning your fruit trees is one of the easiest ways to ensure that your tree isn’t just ornamental but also produces big, beautiful, and tasty fruit. Along with regular pruning, thinning can make a night-and-day difference in your harvest quality!
Article Outline:
- Why thin fruit trees?
- Thinning and Young Trees
- Some Trees Thin Themselves
- Types of Fruit Trees That Generally Require Manual Thinning
- When to Thin?
- How Much Fruit Should You Remove?
- Tree-Specific Guidelines
- FAQ: Common Questions About Thinning
- A Bit of Work, A Big Reward
Why thin fruit trees?
Most fruit trees naturally set more fruit than they can fully support. While this might sound great if you love fruit, too many fruits leads to:
- Small, low-quality fruits – Each piece of fruit competes for the tree’s stored energy (carbohydrates). When there isn’t enough energy to go around, everything stays small and disappointing.
- Disease spread – Fruits touching one another reduce air circulation and can spread diseases (like brown rot) more easily.
- Strain on the tree – Excess fruit can weigh down and break branches. It also depletes the tree’s energy reserves, leaving it more vulnerable to pests, disease, and even sunburn.
By thinning, you help the tree focus its energy on fewer fruits, which leads to better size, flavor, and overall health.
Thinning and Young Trees
For newly planted trees, it’s usually best to remove most (if not all) fruit for the first two or three years. Here’s why:
- Energy goes into establishing roots and structure – Instead of putting resources into fruit, your young tree builds a strong framework and root system.
- Prevent limb breakage – Heavy fruit on young branches can cause damage that sets the tree back for future seasons.
It can feel counterintuitive to remove all those baby fruits, but trust me—your patience will pay off in the long run!
Not sure how to shape your fruit tree for success? My How to Prune Fruit Trees article walks you through the basics to boost fruit size and tree health.
Tip: Labeling your trees helps you remember when each was planted, so you’ll know how old it is and when it’s time to start letting it bear fruit. I personally like to use these labels from Amazon (here’s an article on labeling if you’re interested), but any system that works for you is good.
Some Trees Thin Themselves
Certain trees have a natural “self-thinning” mechanism, where unpollinated blossoms or diseased fruits drop early—this is most noticeable in late spring. For citrus, cherries, figs, pomegranates, persimmons, and many nut trees, this natural drop is often all the thinning they need.
Still, you’ll want to keep an eye on the branches. Even if a tree mostly thins itself, a cluster of fruits on a slender branch might need your help so the branch doesn’t snap or bend too much.
Looking for a continuous harvest all year long? Don’t miss my What to Plant for a Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvest guide for a steady supply of fresh fruit in every season.
Types of Fruit Trees That Generally Require Manual Thinning
- Stone Fruits – Peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines, etc.
- Pome Fruits – Apples and most pears.
These trees typically produce loads of blossoms, resulting in heavy fruit sets. They benefit from a little extra attention to reduce overcrowding and promote bigger, tastier fruits.
Growing fruit in the desert? Explore my Arizona Fruit Planting Guide for the best fruit trees that thrive in hot, dry climates.
When to Thin?
Ideally, thin within a month after full bloom (sometimes referred to as “post-bloom thinning”). By thinning early, you help the remaining fruits reach a larger size because they’ll have more time to soak up nutrients.
If you wait too long—say until fruits are bigger than an inch in diameter—you might not see as much of a jump in final fruit size. So, aim for that “pea size” or “marble size” stage when the fruits are no larger than an inch in diameter.
Wondering how and when to feed your trees? After pruning, it’s important to support new growth with proper nutrition. Discover the right nutrients and timing to keep your orchard thriving in my articles on fertilizing fruit trees and fertilizing citrus trees.
How Much Fruit Should You Remove?
- Remove all fused or double fruits – They tend to be misshapen and less flavorful, and they can harbor pests or disease.
- Remove damaged or disfigured fruits – If insects or weather have already taken a toll, thin them out.
- General spacing guidelines – You want enough room for each fruit to develop without rubbing against neighbors. In many cases, leaving 4–6 inches between peaches or plums is a good start.
- Apple clusters – For apples, aim to leave 1–2 apples per cluster, snipping off the extras. You’ll be amazed how much bigger those remaining apples grow!
Tree-Specific Guidelines
Although every orchardist does things a bit differently, here are a few guidelines that tend to work well:
Peaches and Nectarines
- Thin to about 6–8 inches apart along the branch.
- Watch for doubles and odd shapes (particularly common in nectarines).
Want the sweetest, juiciest peaches? Check out my How to Grow Peach Trees guide for everything from choosing varieties to optimal watering and care.
Plums
- Thin to 4–6 inches apart.
- European plums tend to need less thinning than Japanese plums, but give them a once-over if they’re loaded.
Apricots
- Thin to 2–4 inches apart.
- They usually set fruit abundantly; removing the extras early can avoid limb damage.
Apples
- Thin to 1–2 apples per cluster.
- Typically space them 6–8 inches apart if they’re not in clusters.
Pears
- Asian pears in particular can overset, so thin them similarly to apples—about 1 pear every 6 inches or so, depending on the variety.
- European pears often set fewer fruit and might require less thinning, but remove doubles and damaged fruits.
FAQ: Common Questions About Thinning
1. What if I miss the ideal thinning window?
Don’t worry—it’s still better to thin late than not at all. Even if the fruits have grown beyond that “pea size,” removing some will still help the remaining fruits get bigger and healthier, though the effect might not be as dramatic as earlier thinning.
2. Will thinning damage my tree or reduce my total harvest too much?
Not at all—thinning actually helps preserve the tree’s energy for fewer, higher-quality fruits. While it may look like you’re losing potential fruit in the short term, you’ll usually end up with a better overall harvest (and your tree will stay healthier in the long run).
3. Do I need special tools to thin fruit trees?
For the most part, simple hand pruners or even careful hand-snipping is enough. With smaller fruit (like peaches), you can often just pinch off the fruit. For clusters on apples and pears, small pruning shears or scissors work great.
4. What should I do with the fruit I remove?
Any removed fruit is typically too small to eat, so you can compost it or toss it. If you do compost it, make sure the fruit isn’t diseased or insect-infested. If it’s in good shape, compost away!
5. Can I skip thinning if I already prune my tree?
Pruning removes branches and helps shape the tree, but it’s usually not enough to eliminate overcrowded fruit. Thinning focuses on the fruits themselves, making sure the tree’s resources are channeled into fewer, better fruits.
6. How do I know which fruits are best to keep?
Look for the best-shaped, healthiest, and ideally well-spaced fruits on each branch. Remove any that show damage, disease, or deformities. If you see fruits rubbing together, take at least one out to maintain airflow.
7. Do all trees need thinning every year?
Not necessarily. Some trees (like citrus or persimmons) may self-thin enough. Others might have alternate-bearing patterns—one heavy crop year followed by a lighter one. Keep an eye on your tree each year and thin as needed.
A Bit of Work, A Big Reward
Yes, thinning can feel like a chore—especially when your tree is dripping with baby fruits that look like they might be delicious. But it’s 100% worth it. By taking a little time early in the season, you’ll prevent breakage, reduce disease pressure, and come harvest time, you’ll be rewarded with larger, sweeter, more flavorful fruit.
And remember, the goal isn’t to have your tree dripping with tiny fruits that no one wants to eat. Instead, a moderate amount of big, healthy fruit is far more satisfying…and your taste buds will thank you!
So, go out there, take a good look at those budding branches, and start thinning. Before you know it, you’ll have the kind of harvest you’ve always dreamed of. Happy thinning, and enjoy the delicious rewards!
this was so helpful! If my peaches are bigger than an inch in diameter, should I still thin them or is it too late?
Yes, I would still thin them a bit if you have plenty of fruit on the tree. If your tree has a small amount of fruit (like mine does this year because of the mild winter) I would just thin them lightly. Once they reach a certain size it isn’t as effective to remove fruit.
We thought we had thinned our peach tree enough, but we obviously didnt because we now have major branches broken from fruit weight. Is there a specific way to cut off those branches and WHEN?
It’s heartbreaking to thin peaches, but a necessary part of growing trees. The best time to prune fruit trees in Arizona is when it’s cold and the trees are dormant. Avoid leaving large sections of the tree’s bark exposed to direct sunlight. Once temperatures dip a bit and the heat of summer is past, look for the collar of the branch you need to cut. The branch collar is the area around where the branch is growing out of the tree. To find it look for a ridge, an area where the bark is thicker. Make your cut there and then the tree can form a callous over the cut.
I’ve just started some new trees and follow the recommendations. In past my nectarine tree that was over loaded with fruit lost all fruit to brown rot
This is simple article written for non professional….I like it
Thanks will post updates after following recommendations
I read this too late unfortunately. I was wondering why my trees didn’t produce fruit this year. This certainly would explain it. Any tips on how to rehabilitate the tree this season?
For this season it may be too late to get large fruit. Remove the fruit and be sure to prune the tree when it’s dormant and then thin the fruit next spring. It should recover well.
Does this apply to citrus trees too? I have a tangelo that was planted about a month ago and currently has tons of buds. Was wondering I I should thin them? I live in Phoenix.
Generally no. Citrus trees often self thin and drop fruit they cannot support. You will see many dropped blossoms and often many dropped small fruits within the next couple of months. The exception to this is young trees like yours–remove fruit as needed once it forms if desired to prevent heavy fruit from damaging young branches.