Home » Desert Gardening » Monthly Guides

Arizona Garden in February

Welcome to the low desert of Arizona garden in February. As our days start warming up, there’s plenty to do in the garden—everything from getting your beds ready for spring vegetables to keeping an eye on overwintered crops. This month’s guide will discuss planting fruit trees, pruning frost-damaged branches, managing pests like aphids, and making the most of rainy weather (fingers crossed!). You’ll find simple steps to help your garden thrive during this transitional time. Let’s work together and make the most of your February garden in the low desert.

For those in the low desert areas (below 3,500 feet), such as Phoenix or Tucson, this guide will help you confidently garden during February.

Tip: Want to know exactly what to plant this month? Check out my What to Plant in Arizona in February guide for a complete list of vegetables, flowers, and herbs to plant in February.

---

“The February sunshine steeps your boughs and tints the buds and swells the leaves within.” — William C. Bryant

---

Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during February:

• February YouTube Videos
• Vegetable Gardening Tasks for February
• My February Garden Journals
• Garden Pests in February
• Container Gardening Tasks
• Flower Gardening Tasks
• Caring for Roses During February
• Herb Gardening
• Fruit Trees, Berries, and Citrus
• Landscape Plant Tasks During February
• Watering Your Garden and Landscape
• Frost and Frost Damage

---

February YouTube Videos:

---

Vegetable Gardening Tasks for February

February in the low desert garden marks the transition between cool-season harvests and warm-season planting.

When’s the Right Time to Start Planting?

It all begins with knowing your average last frost date, which can vary from one area to another. To find yours, enter your zip code into a frost date calculator. (My last frost date is February 12.) You’ll use this date to decide when to plant warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers. If you plant too early, a late frost could damage or kill tender plants, so check your frost date now so you’ll be ready.

Soil Temperature: The Other Key Factor

In the low desert, soil temperature and your last frost date go hand in hand for warm-season planting. If the soil is too cold, seeds can germinate slowly, and transplanted seedlings may struggle all season.

Aim for a warm enough soil temperature (usually above 60°F) before planting tomatoes, peppers, and other heat-loving crops. This is the soil thermometer I use.

Learn how to check your soil temperature and get temperature guidelines for planting in this guide.

Preparing Your Garden Beds for Spring

1. Pull Back Mulch and Amend the Soil
Remove any mulch covering your garden bed to expose the soil. If you still have plants in the bed, work amendments into the soil around them as gently as possible.

For a 4×8-foot bed, add about 4 cups of worm castings. These feed your soil’s microbes, which in turn help nourish your plants.

Next, replenish organic matter by adding compost or raised bed mix. Over time, soil loses nutrients and structure, so topping it off now will give your spring crops a healthy start. I get my compost, worm castings and raised bed mix from Arizona Worm Farm.

2. Check Your Watering System

• Turn the system on and watch it run. I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes in my raised beds. (Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.)
• Fix leaks or replace clogged emitters.
• Ensure all areas of the bed are getting water.
• How long it takes to reach a soil depth of 12 inches tells you how long to run the system each watering session.

Bolted Plants: A Pollinator Opportunity

As temperatures rise, brassicas, lettuce, and other cool-season crops may bolt (flower). This doesn’t have to mean the end of the season:

• Let Them Flower: Enjoy the blooms and let pollinators benefit.
• Removal Method: When you’re ready to remove the plant, cut it at the base rather than pull it up to preserve the soil structure.
• Compost or Chicken Feed: Bolted greens make excellent compost material or chicken snacks.

---

My February Garden Journals

Twice a month, I send my personal garden journal to members of “Growing in the Garden Academy.” From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert. Access the past three years of garden journals and monthly classes as a member.

---

Garden Pests in February

As winter vegetables finish their life cycle, some pests take advantage of February’s cooler temperatures and the flush of new growth.

• Aphids
  These soft-bodied insects are drawn to tender leaves and stems. Before you treat, observe your garden and allow beneficial insects—like lady beetles and lacewings—time to show up and help control aphids naturally. If you’d like to encourage more beneficial bugs, let herbs such as dill and cilantro bolt, and consider planting alyssum around roses and other garden areas. For more tips, see my post on controlling aphids without chemicals.
• Genista Caterpillars
  Texas Mountain Laurels often host these caterpillars, which spin loose webbing and feed on leaves. They typically don’t cause significant damage. However, if control becomes necessary, try Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis)—available online—especially while caterpillars are small and actively feeding.
• Go Organic with Companion Planting
  Add some of my favorite warm-season companion plants for a garden full of life (and helpful predators). These flowers and herbs attract beneficial insects, reducing your reliance on chemical controls and keeping pest populations in check.

Staying patient and letting nature lend a hand often leads to healthier plants and fewer pest problems in the long run. If you do decide to intervene, opt for organic solutions first to protect your garden’s ecosystem.

---

Container Gardening Tasks

If you’re growing vegetables in containers, remember they typically need more frequent watering than in-ground beds. It’s also a good time to fertilize them in February, especially if you’ve noticed slowed growth or pale foliage.

• Choosing Container Size: If you’re using grow bags or other portable containers, aim for at least 10 gallons—20 gallons is even better for tomatoes, peppers, and other larger plants. Bigger containers retain moisture longer and give roots more room to grow. Learn more in this guide to container sizes.
• Feeding Containers: Harvesting worm castings from your garden beds and adding them to container soil is a great way to provide natural nutrients. This organic boost helps maintain healthy microbes and supports strong plant growth. No worm castings? This fertilizer works well.
• Frequent Watering: Because containers dry out faster, check moisture levels regularly. Adjust your watering schedule based on the changing weather to prevent plants from wilting or suffering stress.

---

Flower Gardening Tasks

February is a great month to give your annual flowers a little extra care and plan for the coming warm season.

Track Your Success
Keeping a simple garden journal helps you note what’s thriving—both in your yard and around the neighborhood. Those observations guide your future choices, ensuring each year’s flower display is even better than the last.

Fertilize and Water
If you planted cool-season annuals, they’ll continue blooming until it gets hot. To keep them vibrant, fertilize now, remembering to water thoroughly before and after feeding. This fertilizer works well. As temperatures reach the 80s, you’ll need to water more often to prevent wilting.

Warm-Season Planning
If you’re adding warm-season annuals, decide where they’ll go and start direct seeding outdoors this month. Make sure the soil is prepared with nutrients and ready to support young seedlings.

The Perpetual Annual Flower Planting Calendar, available in my shop, helps you learn when to plant flowers in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

---

Caring for Roses During February

Prune & Defoliate

• If you didn’t prune in January, do it now—especially if your roses have been in the ground for at least a year. Remove any dead or damaged branches and clean up fallen leaves around the base to discourage pests and disease.
• For younger roses, prune only lightly and remove any damaged leaves. Learn more about growing roses in this guide.

Fertilize

• Once you see buds and new leaves, it’s time for the first feeding of the season.
• Use liquid fish emulsion for roses planted within the last year and a granular fertilizer for more established bushes.
• Deep-water your roses before and after fertilizing to help nutrients reach the roots.

Plant New Roses

• February is also a great month to plant container-grown roses. Early planting gives them time to establish before the summer heat arrives. I get mine from Heirloom Roses—take a look at my favorites and use this discount code GARDENAZ20 through 2025 for a 20% discount.

---

Herb Gardening

Cool-season herbs like cilantro and dill thrive in the mild days of late winter but may start to bolt as temperatures rise. Here’s how to make the most of your herbs this month:

• Cilantro
  This quick-growing herb prefers cool weather and should be harvested regularly to prevent it from flowering and going to seed (known as coriander). Learn more about growing cilantro here. If you’d like to let it flower, it will attract beneficial insects to your garden.
• Harvest & Preserve
  Take advantage of the abundance by harvesting and preserving herbs now. A freeze-dryer works great if you have one, or you can chop herbs and mix them with olive oil to freeze in ice cube trays. These herb “cubes” are a quick flavor boost for recipes year-round.
• Dill
  Dill is an annual in our cool winters but bolts once the weather warms. Harvest as needed, or let it flower to attract pollinators. Dill can also serve as a “trap crop” for tomato hornworms and is a host plant for caterpillars. Find more tips in my post on growing dill.
• Rosemary
  You may see rosemary blooming this month—harvest stems as needed and allow some flowers to remain for pollinators. For more advice on caring for rosemary, check out this article.

---

Fruit Trees, Citrus, and Berries in February

Deciduous Fruit Trees

February is a great time to plant bare-root fruit trees—look for varieties that require under 400 chill hours. For more on selection and planting, see my Fruit Planting Guide. If your trees still have leaves, strip them away to encourage dormancy, then spray with horticultural oil (I use this one) to manage overwintering pests.

• Prune Before Bud Break: Remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches. If you missed January pruning, do it now.
• Fertilize & Water: After trees blossom, apply fertilizer and deep-water to support new growth. This is the fertilizer I use.

Citrus

Once the last frost date (mine is about February 12) has passed, plant new citrus trees. This article includes 30 citrus varieties. This guide to growing citrus covers everything from planting to fertilizing.

• Ripening Fruit: Sample one to test for sweetness and water established trees about every 2–3 weeks in February.
• Fertilize Now: If you didn’t feed in January, do so this month—water before and after applying fertilizer. This is the fertilizer I use.
• Light Pruning: Not strictly necessary, but once the frost danger is gone, shape the tree if desired. Keep lower branches for maximum fruit production and trunk protection.
• Common Problems: Yellow or dropping leaves are typical in winter. Small, shriveled fruit often indicates inadequate watering; dry, pithy fruit can suggest frost damage.

Grapes & Blackberries

Plant grapes and blackberries now or next month in full sun with a sturdy trellis or arbor.

• Pruning & Fertilizing: If you haven’t pruned grapevines yet, do so to remove old canes. Fertilize once new growth appears, then water thoroughly to help nutrients reach the roots.
• Popular Varieties: Flame Seedless and Thompson Seedless do well in many Arizona gardens.

---

Landscape Plant Tasks

Late winter is a key time to trim frost-damaged or dormant plants, and it’s also an opportunity to add desert-adapted species to your yard.

• Pruning Frost-Tender Plants
  Wait until mid-to-late February to prune lantana, hibiscus, and other frost-sensitive plants. If they’ve experienced frost damage, hold off until you see new growth before making any cuts.
• Cleanup for Trees & Shrubs
  Remove any dead branches toward the end of the month. This helps keep your landscape healthy and prepares plants for spring growth.
• Planting Desert Natives
  Although early fall is the best time to plant, February is the next best option. Adding desert-adapted plants such as desert marigolds, evening primrose, penstemon, and sage gives them more time to establish before the heat arrives.

---

Watering Your Garden and Landscape During February

In a rainy month, your trees and shrubs may not need extra water. If heavy rain doesn’t arrive, it’s still important to practice deep, infrequent watering to promote strong root growth. For more tips, WaterUseItWisely.com offers great guidelines on watering schedules in the desert.

• Trees & Shrubs: If rain is scarce, water no more than once every 14–28 days.
• Citrus: Established citrus trees typically need watering every 2–3 weeks.
• Fruit Trees: Once they’re established, deep-water every 10–14 days.
• Annuals: As daytime temperatures reach the 80s, they’ll need water more frequently—check the top inch of soil and water when it’s dry.
• Containers: Use a moisture meter or test the top inch of soil—only water when the soil has dried out a bit.

I water my garden beds about once a week at the start of February, then increase to every 4–5 days toward the end of the month as temperatures climb. Adjust your schedule based on actual rainfall and how quickly your soil dries out.

---

Frost and Frost Damage

Freezing weather can strike unexpectedly in an Arizona garden in February. If your plants have suffered frost damage, it’s tempting to prune right away, but patience pays off. Damaged leaves and branches actually protect against further cold. My local last frost date is around mid-February, though I constantly monitor the forecast in case of late-season freezes.

• Cover Frost-Sensitive Plants
  Keep burlap or frost cloth on hand to shield newly planted citrus, young lemon and lime trees, and other tender plants when temperatures dip below 32°F (0°C).
• Resist Early Pruning
  Pruning tells the plant to send out tender new growth, which can be harmed by another frost. Wait until the threat of frost has passed (usually after your local last frost date) to trim off damaged leaves or branches. Read the complete guide to pruning peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants after winter here.
• Evaluate Overwintered Crops
  • If a plant is severely damaged or diseased, remove it and plan to start new transplants in a different location.
  • If you see fresh growth, prune back to just above that point, then fertilize and water to encourage a healthy rebound.
  • If no new growth appears, the plant may be done—especially in the case of warm-season crops.
• Landscape Plants
  Many landscape shrubs and trees may take longer to show signs of life after a freeze, so consider waiting until March to see if they bounce back.

Waiting to prune gives your plants the best chance to recover and thrive once the weather stabilizes. Once the final freeze has passed, you can safely remove frost damage, feed, water thoroughly, and watch for new, vigorous growth.

If you’re not sure which plants need protection or how to cover them properly, I have several guides that can help:

• Ways to Protect Your Garden From Frost: Get step-by-step tips for safeguarding your garden and containers when a cold snap hits.
• Protecting Citrus in Cold Weather: Learn the best ways to shield your citrus trees from freezing temperatures.
• Which Plants to Cover in a Freeze: Find out which vegetables, landscape plants, and flowers are most at risk.

---

If this post about gardening in Arizona in February was helpful, please share it.