How to Grow Strawberries

Growing strawberries in Arizona is possible, but they’re not as easy here as they are in cooler climates. Strawberries need plenty of winter and spring sun to produce sweet fruit, but once the low desert heat arrives, they need protection from intense afternoon sun and drying soil.

The best results come from planting at the right time, improving the soil, keeping moisture consistent, and choosing a microclimate that gives them morning sun and afternoon shade. This guide walks you through how to grow strawberries in the garden, with extra guidance for low-desert Arizona and other hot climates.

Quick Start: How to Grow Strawberries in Arizona

Growing strawberries in Arizona is possible, but they aren’t a plant I would describe as effortless in the low desert. Strawberries need plenty of sunlight during the winter and spring to grow and produce well, but they struggle when our weather turns hot, dry, and intensely sunny. The trick is finding the right microclimate: enough winter sun for production, but afternoon protection as temperatures rise.

In the low desert of Arizona, plant strawberries in the fall so they have time to establish roots before spring harvest and summer heat. The University of Arizona recommends planting strawberries in areas below 3,000 feet from September 15 to November 15. I’ve had the best success when I plant earlier in that window, because the more time the roots have to get established before the weather warms up, the better chance the plants have. In higher elevations of Arizona, spring planting from March 15 to May 15 is recommended.

Choose a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, especially as the season warms up. Strawberries need direct sun for good production, but University of Arizona notes that mid- and lower-elevation Arizona strawberries should have afternoon shade during the summer to reduce heat and water stress. A spot near a wall, fence, taller plants, or shade cloth can make a big difference.

Soil is another challenge. Strawberries prefer well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter, but Arizona’s alkaline soil and salty water can make them struggle. Even if you do everything right, a really hot, dry summer can be hard on them. In a milder summer, they may do much better. For me, success has been a combination of doing the right things and hoping the weather cooperates.

Containers and GreenStalk planters can work well because you can control the soil more easily and move the plants to a more protected location during the summer. But they aren’t perfect either. You’re still asking strawberries to survive in a hot plastic container through an Arizona summer, so pay close attention to watering, shade, and plant stress.

Do your best, expect some harvests, and be happy when you get a large harvest. Some years my strawberries have done really well, and other years they’ve struggled more. The difference often comes down to microclimate, how established the plants were before the heat arrived, and whether we had a milder or harsher summer.

For gardeners outside Arizona, planting time depends on climate. In colder winter climates, strawberries are usually planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. In mild winter or warm climates, fall planting may be a better option because plants can establish before heat arrives. Check with your local extension office for the best timing in your area.

10 Tips for Growing Strawberries

1. Choose the appropriate type of strawberry plant for your climate and preference

Strawberries are usually grouped into three main types: June-bearing, everbearing, and day-neutral (a type of everbearing). The best choice depends on your climate and whether you want one larger harvest or smaller harvests over a longer season.

• June-bearing strawberries produce one main crop in spring. In low-desert Arizona, these often perform better than everbearing types because they can produce before the worst summer heat arrives.
  • Varieties to try: Chandler, Camarosa, Sequoia, Tioga.
• Everbearing strawberries typically produce two smaller crops, one earlier in the season and another later. They are often less heat-tolerant and may not perform as well in lower-elevation Arizona gardens.
  • Varieties to try: Quinault, White Carolina Pineberry.
• Day-neutral strawberries are not controlled by day length in the same way. They can keep flowering when temperatures are moderate, but in hot climates they often slow down or stop producing when temperatures climb.
  • Varieties to try: Albion, Seascape, Tribute, Tristar.

2. Plant strawberries at the proper time

Strawberries are frost-sensitive; they prefer temperatures between 35-85℉ (1.6-29°C). In many colder winter climates, strawberries are planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked.

In the low desert of Arizona, fall planting is usually better. Plant strawberries from September 15 to November 15 so they have time to establish roots before spring harvest and summer heat. In higher elevations of Arizona, spring planting from March 15 to May 15 is recommended.

3. Choose the best location in your garden for planting strawberries

Strawberries need rich, well-draining, slightly acidic soil and and plenty of sunlight to produce well. In cooler climates, full sun is usually best. In hot climates like the low desert of Arizona, morning sun with afternoon shade is a better goal. Strawberries need enough sun during winter and spring to grow and produce, but intense afternoon sun and heat can stress the plants as temperatures rise.

Work the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches and remove all weeds. Strawberries grown in poorly-draining soil are more prone to pests and diseases. Amend the planting area with compost and worm castings before planting.

Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil, generally around 5.5 to 6.8. This can be tricky in Arizona because many soils are alkaline, and strawberries are sensitive to salts in both soil and irrigation water. Check your soil’s pH level. If necessary, apply a soil acidifier to lower the pH. For the least stress on plants, a gradual reduction in pH is preferred.

4. Plant strawberries in your garden correctly

Purchase disease-free crowns and transplants from nurseries to avoid diseases common to strawberries. Plant strawberry plants 12″ (30cm) apart, taking care not to bury the crown. 

If planting from crowns, follow these steps: 

• Trim roots to about 4″ (10cm) long, and soak in compost tea. 
• Dig a 6″ (15 cm) hole with a cone of soil in the middle.
• Drape roots over cone, filling in hole with soil.
• DO NOT BURY CROWN. The crown should remain above the soil.
• Water in crowns with compost or worm casting tea.   

5. Mulch strawberries well

Mulch strawberries with a 3-4” (7-10 cm) layer of organic mulch (straw, newspaper, leaves, etc.). Learn more about mulching in this guide. Reasons to mulch strawberries:

• It preserves moisture and prevents strawberries from drying out.
• Keeps leaves and stems off the ground.
• Regulates soil temperatures.
• Keeps weeds down.
• Provides a barrier for soil-borne pests.

6. Water and fertilize strawberries correctly

Strawberries have shallow roots, so they usually need more frequent watering than many garden plants. Water deeply enough to moisten the root zone, but don’t keep the soil soggy.

Check the soil often, especially during warm weather and when plants are growing in containers. Let the top of the soil dry slightly between waterings, but keep the soil evenly moist while plants are flowering and fruiting.

New transplants may need water almost daily for the first week while they settle in. Established plants should be watered based on soil moisture, weather, container size, drainage, and how quickly the soil dries.

Fertilize with fruit and flower fertilizer when flower buds appear. Apply organic fertilizer monthly if needed during the growing season, especially in containers where nutrients wash out more quickly.

7. Grow sweet strawberries

One of the best reasons for growing strawberries is the taste! Nothing is better than eating a ripe, sweet strawberry from the garden. However, when homegrown strawberries aren’t sweet, it is disappointing.

A few things can help encourage sweet strawberries:

• Check the pH level of your soil. Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil, generally around 5.5 to 6.8.
• Give strawberries enough sunlight.
  • In cooler climates, full sun is best. In hot climates, aim for morning sun and afternoon protection.
• Grow strawberries in compost-rich, high in nutrient, well-draining soil and fertilize as needed.
• Smaller types of strawberries tend to be sweeter than larger berries.
• Wait to harvest strawberries until they are completely red.
• Harvest berries first thing in the morning.

8. Encourage strong strawberry plants

• Remove flowers for 2-3 weeks after planting to encourage root production.
• Remove runners if your goal is a stronger mother plant and better fruit production. Runners take energy away from root development and fruiting, especially when plants are newly planted or already stressed by heat.
  • If desired, pot up runners with potting soil and keep them well-watered while they develop roots.
• After 3-4 years, harvests may diminish. At this time, it’s best to remove old strawberry plants and begin again with new crowns from the nursery in a different location (avoid locations where strawberries, raspberries, tomatoes, or potatoes grew previously).

9. Prevent and manage common strawberry pests in your garden

We aren’t the only ones who enjoy fresh strawberries in the garden. Here are a few common pests and tips for managing them:

Birds: Use barrier methods. Add cloches and tulle. Pick fruit immediately when ripe.

Slugs: Remove slugs by hand at night and set beer or yeast traps. Use strawberry supports to lift strawberries off the ground. 

Pill Bugs: Grow strawberries in containers, grow bags, or a GreenStalk vertical planter (discount applied at checkout). Straw mulch keeps fruit off of dirt and away from bugs. Use strawberry supports to lift strawberries up off the ground. Read this blog post for other pill bug control methods.

• Hanging baskets are extra challenging in hot, dry climates because they dry out quickly and the roots heat up faster than they would in the ground. They can work for a short season or in a protected spot, but they usually need more frequent watering, afternoon shade, and close attention during hot weather.

Find more crops that grow well in containers in this guide.

10. Harvesting and using strawberries

Wait to harvest until the berries are fully red. Strawberries do not ripen further once picked. Cut strawberries off the plant, leaving a small stem attached. Lay picked berries in a shallow pan to prevent bruising. 

Pick rotting berries off the plant and discard. Leave caps of berries attached until just before eating. Use harvested strawberries as soon as possible.

Summary: How to Grow Strawberries in Arizona

It can be difficult, but growing strawberries in the garden in Arizona is not impossible. If you decide to grow strawberries in the low desert of Arizona, here are a few additional tips to keep in mind: 

• You may need to plant new plants each year. Arizona summers are tough on strawberry plants, and they often die.
• Strawberries in Arizona need afternoon shade. Plant asparagus and sunflowers nearby as companion plants to shade strawberries during the summer. 
  • I also like planting I’itoi onions near strawberries because they stay small, don’t overwhelm the plants, and fit well along the edges of a strawberry bed or container.
• Strawberries have shallow roots, so they usually need more frequent watering than many other garden plants, especially in containers or during hot, dry weather.
  • Check the soil often and keep it evenly moist, but not soggy. New transplants may need water almost daily for the first week, but established plants should be watered based on soil moisture, weather, container size, and drainage.
• Mulch strawberries well.
• Strawberries are salt-sensitive, making them difficult to grow in Arizona’s salty soil. Regular deep watering can help wash salts from the soil.
  • If you struggle with alkaline water or salt buildup, rainwater can help if you’re able to collect and use it. Good drainage, organic matter, occasional deep watering to help move salts below the root zone, and avoiding softened water are also important.
  • Watch for dry, brown leaf margins, brittle leaves, stunted growth, or plants that seem to decline even when they’re getting enough water.
• Strawberries are sensitive to frost, especially during their flowering and fruiting stages. Covering them with frost blankets, straw mulch, or other protective materials can help prevent frost damage and protect the blossoms and developing fruit.
• Plant strawberries in the low desert of Arizona from mid-September through January. Planting strawberries by November 15th allows plants to become more established by spring. 
• Varieties to try in the low desert of Arizona:
  • Albion — Day-neutral; large, firm, sweet berries with good disease and heat resistance.
  • Eversweet — Continuous harvests of large, sweet strawberries throughout spring and fall; handles heat better than many varieties.
  • Chandler — Early to mid-June bearing (short-day); large, aromatic fruit; great flavor, best in cooler months of spring.
  • Quinault — Everbearing; medium–large, soft, sweet berries; good for containers and partial shade; fruits spring–fall with a lull in extreme heat.
  • Sequoia — June-bearing; vigorous plants, juicy classic flavor; commonly grown in Arizona; productive in mild spring weather.
  • Tristar — Day-neutral; small–medium, sweet berries; heavy crop in early spring, slows in hot summer.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Strawberries