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How to Grow Strawberries in Arizona’s Low Desert

Growing strawberries in Arizona is possible, but they’re not as easy here as they are in cooler climates. Strawberries need plenty of winter and spring sun to produce sweet fruit, but once the low desert heat arrives, they need protection from intense afternoon sun and drying soil.

The best results come from planting at the right time, improving the soil, maintaining consistent moisture, and choosing a microclimate that provides morning sun and afternoon shade. This guide walks you through growing strawberries in the garden, with extra guidance for low-desert Arizona and other hot climates.

Fresh strawberries in a metal colander, viewed from above, with green leaves still attached.

Key Takeaways

  • Growing strawberries in Arizona requires careful timing, ideally from September 15 to November 15 for optimal root establishment.
  • Strawberries prefer morning sun with afternoon shade to avoid heat stress and should be planted in well-draining, slightly acidic soil.
  • Select heat-tolerant varieties like Chandler and Sequoia for the best results in low-desert climates.
  • Consistent watering is crucial; monitor soil moisture closely, especially during hot weather.
  • Mulch strawberries to retain moisture and protect them from the summer heat; be prepared to replant each year due to harsh conditions.


Quick Start: How to Grow Strawberries in Arizona

Growing strawberries in Arizona is possible, but they aren’t an easy crop to grow. Strawberries need plenty of sunlight during the winter and spring to grow and produce well, but they struggle when our weather turns hot, dry, and intensely sunny. The trick is finding the right microclimate: enough winter sun for production, but afternoon protection as temperatures rise.

In the low desert of Arizona, plant strawberries in the fall so they have time to establish roots before spring harvest and summer heat. In higher elevations of Arizona, spring planting from March 15 to May 15 is recommended.

Soil is another challenge. Strawberries prefer well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter, but Arizona’s alkaline soil and salty water can make them struggle. Even if you do everything right, a really hot, dry summer can be hard on them. In a milder summer, they may do much better. For me, success has been a combination of doing the right things and hoping the weather cooperates.

Containers and GreenStalk planters can work well because you can control the soil more easily and move the plants to a more protected location during the summer. But they aren’t perfect either. You’re still asking strawberries to survive in a hot plastic container through an Arizona summer, so pay close attention to watering, shade, and plant stress.

Strawberry plants with green leaves and white flowers growing in green vertical garden pots.

Do your best, expect some harvests, and be happy when you get a large harvest. Some years my strawberries have done really well, and other years they’ve struggled more. The difference often comes down to microclimate, how established the plants were before the heat arrived, and whether we had a milder or harsher summer.

Best setup for Arizona gardenersRecommendation
Best timingPlant in fall, ideally from September 15 to November 15 in the low desert.
Best exposureChoose a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, especially as temperatures rise.
Best growing setupA raised bed, container, or GreenStalk with well-draining soil, compost, mulch, and consistent moisture.
Hardest setupHanging baskets. They dry out quickly and heat up faster than plants in the ground.
Best expectationPlan for a spring harvest. If plants survive the summer, that’s a bonus, but a very hot, dry summer can be hard on strawberries even when you do everything right.

Choosing the Right Varieties

Small potted plants labeled Chandler Strawberries and Blackberry with green leaves and chalkboard signs.

Strawberries are usually grouped into three main types: June-bearing, everbearing, and day-neutral (a type of everbearing). The best choice depends on your climate and whether you want one larger harvest or smaller harvests over a longer season.

  • June-bearing strawberries produce one main crop in spring. In low-desert Arizona, these often perform better than everbearing types because they can produce before the worst summer heat arrives.
    • Varieties to try: Chandler, Camarosa, Sequoia, Tioga.
  • Everbearing strawberries typically produce two smaller crops, one earlier in the season and another later. They are often less heat-tolerant and may not perform as well in lower-elevation Arizona gardens.
    • Varieties to try: Quinault, White Carolina Pineberry.
  • Day-neutral strawberries are not controlled by day length in the same way. They can keep flowering when temperatures are moderate, but in hot climates they often slow down or stop producing when temperatures climb.
    • Varieties to try: Albion, Seascape, Tribute, Tristar.

When to Plant Strawberries

Strawberries are frost-sensitive; they prefer temperatures between 35-85℉ (1.6-29°C). In many colder winter climates, strawberries are planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked.

In the low desert of Arizona, fall planting is usually better. Plant strawberries from September 15 to November 15 so they have time to establish roots before spring harvest and summer heat. In higher elevations of Arizona, spring planting from March 15 to May 15 is recommended.


Where to Plant Strawberries

Two garden beds with drip irrigation: sparse strawberry plants on the left, dense healthy plants on the right.

Strawberries need rich, well-draining, slightly acidic soil and and plenty of sunlight to produce well. In cooler climates, full sun is usually best. In hot climates like the low desert of Arizona, morning sun with afternoon shade is a better goal. Strawberries need enough sun during winter and spring to grow and produce, but intense afternoon sun and heat can stress the plants as temperatures rise.

Work the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches and remove all weeds. Strawberries grown in poorly-draining soil are more prone to pests and diseases. Amend the planting area with compost and worm castings before planting.

Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil, generally around 5.5 to 6.8. This can be tricky in Arizona because many soils are alkaline, and strawberries are sensitive to salts in both soil and irrigation water. Check your soil’s pH level. If necessary, apply a soil acidifier to lower the pH. For the least stress on plants, a gradual reduction in pH is preferred.


How to Plant Strawberries Correctly

Purchase disease-free crowns and transplants from nurseries to avoid strawberry diseases. Plant strawberry plants 12″ (30cm) apart, taking care not to bury the crown. 

Two images show gloved hands tending and trimming strawberry plants in a garden bed.

If planting from crowns, follow these steps: 

  • Trim roots to about 4″ (10cm) long, and soak in compost tea. 
  • Dig a 6″ (15 cm) hole with a cone of soil in the middle.
  • Drape roots over the cone, filling in the hole with soil.
  • DO NOT BURY CROWN. The crown should remain above the soil.
  • Water in crowns with compost or worm casting tea.   

How to encourage strong strawberry plants:

  • Remove flowers for 2-3 weeks after planting to encourage root production.
  • Remove runners if your goal is a stronger mother plant and better fruit production. Runners take energy away from root development and fruiting, especially when plants are newly planted or already stressed by heat.
    • If desired, pot up runners with potting soil and keep them well-watered while they develop roots.
  • After 3-4 years, harvests may diminish. At this time, it’s best to remove old strawberry plants and begin again with new crowns from the nursery in a different location (avoid locations where strawberries, raspberries, tomatoes, or potatoes grew previously).

Mulch strawberries with a 3-4” (7-10 cm) layer of organic mulch (straw, newspaper, leaves, etc.). Learn more about mulching in this guide.

Two garden beds with green strawberry plants, one with flowers, both using drip irrigation systems.

Watering and Fertililzing Strawberries

Strawberries have shallow roots, so they usually need more frequent watering than many garden plants. Water deeply enough to moisten the root zone, but don’t keep the soil soggy.

Check the soil often, especially during warm weather and when plants are growing in containers. Let the top of the soil dry slightly between waterings, but keep the soil evenly moist while plants are flowering and fruiting.

New transplants may need water almost daily for the first week while they settle in. Established plants should be watered based on soil moisture, weather, container size, drainage, and how quickly the soil dries.

Fertilize with fruit and flower fertilizer when flower buds appear. Apply organic fertilizer monthly if needed during the growing season, especially in containers where nutrients wash out more quickly.

A hand pours organic fruit and flower fertilizer into a metal watering can in a garden.

How to Get Sweet Strawberries

One of the best reasons for growing strawberries is the taste! Nothing is better than eating a ripe, sweet strawberry from the garden. However, when homegrown strawberries aren’t sweet, it is disappointing.

A few things can help encourage sweet strawberries:

  • Check the pH level of your soil. Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil, generally around 5.5 to 6.8.
  • Give strawberries enough sunlight.
    • In cooler climates, full sun is best. In hot climates, aim for morning sun and afternoon protection.
  • Grow strawberries in compost-rich, high in nutrient, well-draining soil and fertilize as needed.
  • Smaller types of strawberries tend to be sweeter than larger berries.
  • Wait to harvest strawberries until they are completely red.
  • Harvest berries first thing in the morning.
Left: Hand holding ripe strawberries; right: Strawberries ripening on the plant by a wooden garden bed.

Common Strawberry Pests

We aren’t the only ones who enjoy fresh strawberries in the garden. Here are a few common pests and tips for managing them:

Birds: Use barrier methods. Add cloches and tulle. Pick fruit immediately when ripe.

Slugs: Remove slugs by hand at night and set beer or yeast traps. Use strawberry supports to lift strawberries off the ground. 

Pill Bugs: Grow strawberries in containers, grow bags, or a GreenStalk vertical planter. Straw mulch keeps fruit off of dirt and away from bugs. Use strawberry supports to lift strawberries up off the ground. Read this blog post for other pill bug control methods.

  • Hanging baskets are extra challenging in hot, dry climates because they dry out quickly and the roots heat up faster than they would in the ground. They can work for a short season or in a protected spot, but they usually need more frequent watering, afternoon shade, and close attention during hot weather.
Three images of strawberry plants: one with caterpillars on a half-eaten berry, others with ripening strawberries.
Growing in containers or using strawberry supports can help manage pill bugs.

Harvesting Strawberries

Wait to harvest until the berries are fully red. Strawberries do not ripen further once picked. Cut strawberries off the plant, leaving a small stem attached. Lay picked berries in a shallow pan to prevent bruising. 

Pick rotting berries off the plant and discard. Leave caps of berries attached until just before eating. Use harvested strawberries as soon as possible.

A hand holding a shirt filled with freshly picked ripe red strawberries in a garden.

Summary: How to Grow Strawberries in Arizona

It can be difficult, but growing strawberries in the garden in Arizona is not impossible. If you decide to grow strawberries in the low desert of Arizona, here are a few additional tips to keep in mind: 

  • You may need to plant new plants each year. Arizona summers are tough on strawberry plants, and they often die.
  • Strawberries in Arizona need afternoon shade. Plant asparagus and sunflowers nearby as companion plants to shade strawberries during the summer. 
    • I also like planting I’itoi onions near strawberries because they stay small, don’t overwhelm the plants, and fit well along the edges of a strawberry bed or container.
  • Strawberries have shallow roots, so they usually need more frequent watering than many other garden plants, especially in containers or during hot, dry weather.
    • Check the soil often and keep it evenly moist, but not soggy. New transplants may need water almost daily for the first week, but established plants should be watered based on soil moisture, weather, container size, and drainage.
  • Mulch strawberries well.
  • Strawberries are salt-sensitive, making them difficult to grow in Arizona’s salty soil. Regular deep watering can help wash salts from the soil.
    • If you struggle with alkaline water or salt buildup, rainwater can help if you’re able to collect and use it. Good drainage, organic matter, occasional deep watering to help move salts below the root zone, and avoiding softened water are also important.
    • Watch for dry, brown leaf margins, brittle leaves, stunted growth, or plants that seem to decline even when they’re getting enough water.
  • Strawberries are sensitive to frost, especially during their flowering and fruiting stages. Covering them with frost blankets, straw mulch, or other protective materials can help prevent frost damage and protect the blossoms and developing fruit.
  • Plant strawberries in the low desert of Arizona from mid-September through January. Planting strawberries by November 15th allows plants to become more established by spring. 
A hand holds a carton of strawberries in front of leafy green plants and white flowers.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Strawberries

When should I plant strawberries in Arizona?

In the fall, from about mid-September through mid-November. Planting early in that window gives the roots the most time to establish before the heat, which is when strawberries do best here.

Can strawberries survive summer in Arizona?

Sometimes, but they often struggle. Strawberries need winter sun to produce well, but summer heat and intense sun can stress the plants. Afternoon shade, mulch, consistent watering, and the right microclimate help, but a very hot, dry summer may still be hard on them.

How often should I water strawberries?

Check the soil instead of following a strict schedule. Strawberries have shallow roots and need evenly moist soil, especially in containers or hot weather, but they don’t like soggy soil. Water when the top inch of soil begins to dry out.

Should I remove strawberry runners?

Yes, especially when plants are young or stressed. Removing runners helps the plant put more energy into its roots and fruit rather than producing new plants.

Can I grow strawberries in hanging baskets?

You can, but hanging baskets are extra difficult in hot, dry climates because they dry out quickly and the roots heat up faster. A GreenStalk, raised bed, or container in a protected spot is usually easier to manage.

What strawberry varieties grow best in Arizona?

June-bearing varieties like Chandler and Sequoia. They set one crop in spring before the heat. Everbearing and day-neutral types struggle here because they depend on a summer and fall harvest our heat won’t allow.

Do strawberries come back every year in Arizona?

Sometimes, but not usually in the low desert. The summer heat, intense sun, and salty soil kill most plants, so I treat them as an annual and replant each fall. Any plant that survives the summer is a bonus.

Why do my strawberry plants keep dying?

In the low desert it’s usually summer heat and sun, a crown planted too deep so it rots, or salt building up in the soil and water. Give them afternoon shade, set the crown right at the soil surface, and water deeply to flush salts.

Are strawberries worth growing in Arizona?

For the experience, yes. A fresh strawberry off the plant beats anything from the store. As a way to save money, no. They’re an expensive crop to grow here, so grow them for the treat and don’t expect to save money.

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20 comments on "How to Grow Strawberries in Arizona’s Low Desert"

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  1. I love your absolutely love your site, videos and fantastic gardening advice! Wondering if you might have any ideas about why my strawberries are not letting any shoots. I planted a pack of albion strawberries a few years back. They seem to be doing quite well otherwise, looking healthy and producing fruit.

  2. Hi Angela. I purchased a strawberry (Fragaria Ananassa) hanging basket at Costco. I didn’t see any mention in this article about hanging baskets. Any advice for success?

    1. Hi Andrew – if you live in a hot dry climate a hanging basket can be extra challenging. Keep the moisture level up. You may have to water every day. During the summer move it to an area that gets afternoon shade. Hope this helps!

  3. Hi Angela, thank you for your wonderful website, videos, and blogs! They are so helpful and I’m excited about my container garden, thanks to your tips. For strawberries (and blueberries) I’ve been told that our low desert water is alkaline and I should mix it with vinegar to make it slightly acidic for acid-loving plants. Do you recommend that for strawberries and blueberries? (1 tablespoon per 2 gallons?) I’m trying to grow both – I see blueberries in your book but not on your website yet. I hope you add them to the website soon, I would love additional low desert blueberry tips. Appreciate your assistance, thank you.

    Selene, Cave Creek (north of Phoenix and Scottsdale)

    1. I haven’t heard the tip about watering with vinegar, interesting. Alkalinity is a problem but I’m not sure that is the solution. Strawberries will grow well here using the tips in this blog post. However our climate is not conducive to blueberries. They often need cooler temperatures and less heat than what we get here. The book is for a wider audience which is why they were included, but I generally don’t recommend growing blueberries here. Best of luck with your garden.

  4. I just transplanted some strawberries in my huge raised beds . When and what should I fertilize them with? I bought from a local nursery here in AZ. They are Chandler and I also bought some everbearing roots that I also planted. I really appreciate all of you videos. I live in Mesa, as well.

    1. My favorite way to fertilize is using worm castings or compost. You can use compost at the beginning of each season and worm castings about once a month.

  5. I would like to plant strawberries now (early October). I live Mesa, zipcode 85212. Where can you get the best strawberry transplants? Thank you

  6. Inherited my garden and strawberry bed has been there a few years. The berrys are sweet and I get a few each day. Some are mushy when I pick them. Not sure why?

  7. Can I plant strawberry plants right now (late May) in Phoenix? They’re selling Quinault at the store. Thanks!

    1. I would wait. They will have a tough time over the summer and you probably won’t get much fruit.

  8. I planted Chandler variety about a week ago left the crown above the soil but now each one of the plants is wilting. what am I doing wrong?

    1. Make sure you have good soil. Newly planted strawberries also require more frequent watering. Hopefully they are settling in and will recover soon. Where are you located?

  9. OK, I found 2 Quinault at a hardware store and bought them. Right now, they’re in quart pots waiting to go in later in the month. I wanted a dozen plants, but am happy to have these, at long last. I did buy seeds, Treska, and a few came up. But, if the Quinault produce runners, I can pot them and keep them on the back porch toll next fall. Wish me luck!

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